Day 12: Relaxing Rome
When we were first planning out this trip and Maria and Nico kept insisting that we go to Rome after England and Ireland, one of my hesitancies was due to the fact that Rome is normally so hectic. It is a large city, and people flock there from all over the world. If we are on a pilgrimage, why go to a hectic, tourist filled place? Obviously, I was convinced otherwise.
The plan was that we visit places we hadn’t visited before, skipping the touristy places and going to smaller basilicas. We still made it to St Peter’s as you saw yesterday, but definitely weren’t going to the Coliseum (even though we drove by it on the bus yesterday), Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, etc. Even on the flight from London, I was still expecting LOTS of people everywhere in Rome, but between the facts of it being August and the sites we were visiting, we weren’t in big crowds of people and the streets were mostly quiet. The tongue-in-cheek way I have talked about Rome in the past is: “What do Romans do in August? They leave.” August is hot in Rome, so it is a time to get out and go on vacation. Typically, even the Pope leaves, but Pope Francis is still giving Audiences and Angeluses this year.
We got a nice, night’s sleep in the comfortable hotel, and then got up to start the day. The plan was to visit four sites, two in the morning and two in the afternoon, while going to mass at 11. We had found a place that the website said Latin mass and close to where we were going, so that was our plan.
We stopped first at Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a minor basilica, which contains the remains of St Catherine of Siena, the renown artist Fra Angelico, and others. There is a lot of Dominican influence on the basilica, including those two well known figures. I had missed visiting when we had been in Rome before. Besides, the Catholic apostolate that we founded was founded on St Catherine’s feast day. The church was dark, but filled with lots of gorgeous chapels. And then to have the opportunity to venerate the remains of a Doctor of the Church!
The plan was that we visit places we hadn’t visited before, skipping the touristy places and going to smaller basilicas. We still made it to St Peter’s as you saw yesterday, but definitely weren’t going to the Coliseum (even though we drove by it on the bus yesterday), Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, etc. Even on the flight from London, I was still expecting LOTS of people everywhere in Rome, but between the facts of it being August and the sites we were visiting, we weren’t in big crowds of people and the streets were mostly quiet. The tongue-in-cheek way I have talked about Rome in the past is: “What do Romans do in August? They leave.” August is hot in Rome, so it is a time to get out and go on vacation. Typically, even the Pope leaves, but Pope Francis is still giving Audiences and Angeluses this year.
We got a nice, night’s sleep in the comfortable hotel, and then got up to start the day. The plan was to visit four sites, two in the morning and two in the afternoon, while going to mass at 11. We had found a place that the website said Latin mass and close to where we were going, so that was our plan.
We stopped first at Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a minor basilica, which contains the remains of St Catherine of Siena, the renown artist Fra Angelico, and others. There is a lot of Dominican influence on the basilica, including those two well known figures. I had missed visiting when we had been in Rome before. Besides, the Catholic apostolate that we founded was founded on St Catherine’s feast day. The church was dark, but filled with lots of gorgeous chapels. And then to have the opportunity to venerate the remains of a Doctor of the Church!
Our next stop was mass. We skipped the Pantheon which is right next to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, when we saw the long lines. Besides, we have visited before. We didn’t make it to the Latin mass, as they had a different schedule for August, having mass earlier than we were or later in the evening. We ended up at an Italian mass at the Basilica of St Andrew. Mass is always beautiful, but the church was gorgeous, helping to elevate our minds even more to God. I got the added grace of in the exact moment I was receiving communion, the church bella started ringing loudly.
Next stop, not far from there was the minor basilica of St Eustachio in Campo Marzio. We couldn’t remember why we had chosen that site other than it was a Basilica. We arrived while they were having mass for about three people.
Our next two stops weren’t as happy. We went to St Mary del Populo (of the people). Unfortunately, they are remodeling with no way to get in, so we headed back to our hotel via bus. Nico and I were dressed nicely for Sunday mass with slacks, dress shirt and shoes. It wasn’t the best for walking around hot Rome. Maria was in a skirt with Birkenstocks, so she was fine. We were happy to be back at the hotel to change, kick off our shoes, and rest in the air conditioned room.
After our rest, we headed for the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of the Christ the King. The neighborhood was quiet and the church was closed. From the outside, it looked very modern.
After our rest, we headed for the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of the Christ the King. The neighborhood was quiet and the church was closed. From the outside, it looked very modern.
After that, our luck changed. I had texted Brother Augustine Joseph, my godson in formation for Franciscan TORs in Washington, DC, and he mentioned St Josemaria Escriva’s tomb. It was only a short bus ride away, so we hopped on the bus. We ended up in a residential neighborhood where nothing looked like a church. How could this be right? Google must be wrong again. But, then all of a sudden, a woman from Spain popped out and asked if we were looking for the church. She guided us to the right place and called to get us a guide. Inside the residential looking building is the prelature of Opus Dei with some of the most beautiful chapels and the actual church with the remains of St Josemaria, his successor Bl Alavaro del Portillo, and other people important to the “work.” We first went down steps, then around and up others, each time to something more amazing. What a blessing! I never would have imagined anything so beautiful just looking on the outside.
We headed next towards the Basilica of St John Lateran. We had learned from the owner of the olive oil gelato place that they had a bigger shop with more flavors there. He was right that the selection was great, as was the gelato. Nico had a mixture of different fruit flavors that tasted just like the fruit, while Maria and I had chocolate, pistachio and Nutella. It was delicious! I actually sampled a spicy chocolate that had a wonderful kick after tasting. It was good, but not as refreshing as what I ordered.
We walked around the block next to the Scala Sancta, the Holy Stairs, which are the stairs that Jesus walked up to speak with Pilate. There are actual drops of blood which match the blood type on the Shroud of Turin. There are stairs over the actual stairs that normally one climbs on their knees. They are being remodeled this year, but the stairs adjacent to them are still being used for prayerful climbing on your knees to the Pope’s chapel where one of the most sacred relics is kept: an image “not made by human hands,” similar to the Shroud. I skipped climbing on my knees, since my knee was already hurting me. I was able to get some good photos, but promised not to publish the best, with Nico in deep prayer on the top step. We also found a chapel run by the Passionist which had an image of St Gemma for whom Maria has had a big devotion over the past year.
We ended the evening with a nice relaxing dinner in the same restaurant where we ate the evening before. It was a wonderfully relaxing day. We sweated a lot and walked almost six miles, but without the hecticness that I had expected. It was a surprisingly refreshing day with great company, good food, and multiple unexpected blessings. I’m very glad we came. Tomorrow we leave for Lanciano and San Giovanni Rotondo after morning mass. It will mean a four hour drive in Italy, but at least it is on the right side of the road here.
We walked around the block next to the Scala Sancta, the Holy Stairs, which are the stairs that Jesus walked up to speak with Pilate. There are actual drops of blood which match the blood type on the Shroud of Turin. There are stairs over the actual stairs that normally one climbs on their knees. They are being remodeled this year, but the stairs adjacent to them are still being used for prayerful climbing on your knees to the Pope’s chapel where one of the most sacred relics is kept: an image “not made by human hands,” similar to the Shroud. I skipped climbing on my knees, since my knee was already hurting me. I was able to get some good photos, but promised not to publish the best, with Nico in deep prayer on the top step. We also found a chapel run by the Passionist which had an image of St Gemma for whom Maria has had a big devotion over the past year.
We ended the evening with a nice relaxing dinner in the same restaurant where we ate the evening before. It was a wonderfully relaxing day. We sweated a lot and walked almost six miles, but without the hecticness that I had expected. It was a surprisingly refreshing day with great company, good food, and multiple unexpected blessings. I’m very glad we came. Tomorrow we leave for Lanciano and San Giovanni Rotondo after morning mass. It will mean a four hour drive in Italy, but at least it is on the right side of the road here.