Day 14: Almost to the End
As we are coming to the last days of our pilgrimage with clean clothing now a much smaller pile than the dirty (plus having to remember where we left everything) and the number of sites left to visit dwindling down to almost nothing, I can’t help to think back to all of the blessings we have received every day. It has all been so wonderful, with very few exceptions.
Yesterday, we woke up in San Giovanni Rotondo. Our original plan was to leave at 0 dark hundred and drive back to Rome to leave the rental car. The more we thought about it, however; the more sense it made to just keep the car one more day, go back more relaxed, and then use the car to get to the airport for our flight the next day. We still had to stop at Lanciano, which is about half way between San Giovanni Rotondo and Rome, and we didn’t want to be rushed. It was a perfect start to the day, to get up to walk to mass with St Pio of Pietrelcina and the capuchin friars there at the shrine. We had the added bonus of some nuns from an order dedicated to St Maximilian Kolbe where there for music on St Max’s feast day. It was such a great start to the day. After getting our last gifts (the store was closed the night before) and returning to the tomb of St Pio to hold them there, we took the leasurely stroll down the hill to our hotel and breakfast. After rearranging all of our stuff to fit in our smaller bags (the larger ones still remaining at our hotel in Rome, which we were going to return to for our final evening and morning in Italy), we headed out for the long drive back to Rome. By the time we made it to Lanciano, the monks had closed the shrine for a long lunch. We took the time to explore the cathedral next door and the remains of a third century Roman bridge above which the cathedral had been built. The acoustics are so good there that they use the space for international music festivals.
We still had some time before the shrine of the Eucharistic miracle opened (they take almost three hour lunch), we ate, walked around, and then sat down for a nice gelato (they even had some not made with milk for Maria). We sat at a table to watch the few people walking and the traffic go by. Thunder and lightening started, but the clouds were still very high, so I made a comment that it wasn’t going to rain much. Boy was I wrong! Below the photos there is a video of what we saw.
Yesterday, we woke up in San Giovanni Rotondo. Our original plan was to leave at 0 dark hundred and drive back to Rome to leave the rental car. The more we thought about it, however; the more sense it made to just keep the car one more day, go back more relaxed, and then use the car to get to the airport for our flight the next day. We still had to stop at Lanciano, which is about half way between San Giovanni Rotondo and Rome, and we didn’t want to be rushed. It was a perfect start to the day, to get up to walk to mass with St Pio of Pietrelcina and the capuchin friars there at the shrine. We had the added bonus of some nuns from an order dedicated to St Maximilian Kolbe where there for music on St Max’s feast day. It was such a great start to the day. After getting our last gifts (the store was closed the night before) and returning to the tomb of St Pio to hold them there, we took the leasurely stroll down the hill to our hotel and breakfast. After rearranging all of our stuff to fit in our smaller bags (the larger ones still remaining at our hotel in Rome, which we were going to return to for our final evening and morning in Italy), we headed out for the long drive back to Rome. By the time we made it to Lanciano, the monks had closed the shrine for a long lunch. We took the time to explore the cathedral next door and the remains of a third century Roman bridge above which the cathedral had been built. The acoustics are so good there that they use the space for international music festivals.
We still had some time before the shrine of the Eucharistic miracle opened (they take almost three hour lunch), we ate, walked around, and then sat down for a nice gelato (they even had some not made with milk for Maria). We sat at a table to watch the few people walking and the traffic go by. Thunder and lightening started, but the clouds were still very high, so I made a comment that it wasn’t going to rain much. Boy was I wrong! Below the photos there is a video of what we saw.
We ended up having to move twice during the rain. The flooding first pushed us to a table away from the end of the place, and then the wind shifted and blew rain in further. We ended up actually inside until the rain calmed. At one point one of the parked cars on the plaza had water covering the over half of it. About 15-20 minutes later when we were finally able to venture out, all of the rain had drained away. If only Modesto could have that type of drainage.
Finally, we were able to head to the entrance to wait for the monks to open. It was a moving experience to be in front of the miraculous Eucharist that had turned into human flesh back in the 8th century. There were actually people crying why in the presence. We spent a long time in prayer before descending to the lower level where the miracle actually occured. The site is not overly tourist friendly, but I would recommend a visit to everyone.
Finally, we were able to head to the entrance to wait for the monks to open. It was a moving experience to be in front of the miraculous Eucharist that had turned into human flesh back in the 8th century. There were actually people crying why in the presence. We spent a long time in prayer before descending to the lower level where the miracle actually occured. The site is not overly tourist friendly, but I would recommend a visit to everyone.
We next had the long drive back to Rome. It was mostly uneventful, as the autostrada is well designed. We finally made it to Rome. Our plan was to visit two more basilicas, have dinner and then head to the hotel. We stopped first at the Basilica of St Lawrence. I was excited as two early deacons have relics there. The tomb of St Lawrence is there, in addition to St Stephen, one of the first seven. Unfortunately, we got there late and they weren’t going to let us in. Luckily, a local asked Maria if we wanted to venerate the tomb of St Lawrence. “Si si,” we responded. She opened the gate and let us in, in spite of the threatening tone of the man there saying that mass was about to start. “We will be quick.” I felt rushed but blessed to pray there for my brothers in formation for the diaconate. We left, assuming that we would easily find a mass the next day for the feast of the Assumption.
We headed to Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. We went in and were admiring the beautiful Basilica, heading our way to the chapel of the relic of the true cross when they closed the door right as we got there. We were sad, but knew that we couldn’t do anything.
Maria had looked earlier for something Carmelite, but Nico is better at searching and found, not far from where we were, the chapter house for the discalced Carmelites. What a gorgeous church! We were kicked out as well, as it was also closing, but not until we were essentially done.
We headed to Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. We went in and were admiring the beautiful Basilica, heading our way to the chapel of the relic of the true cross when they closed the door right as we got there. We were sad, but knew that we couldn’t do anything.
Maria had looked earlier for something Carmelite, but Nico is better at searching and found, not far from where we were, the chapter house for the discalced Carmelites. What a gorgeous church! We were kicked out as well, as it was also closing, but not until we were essentially done.
The next part wasn’t exactly a happy part. We tried via Google maps to find a good restaurant close. Every one that we found there was either in a bad area or closed. I said, “let’s just find one close to our hotel that we haven’t gone to.” We found one and let Google guide us.
If have never been to Rome before, there are wide avenues and small cobble-stone road designed for horses or carriages not 21st century cars, especially when filled with people walking. Nico read a guide book posting online talking about driving in Italy. The recommendations were 1) driving on the Autostrade was recommended (that’s the toll freeway system), 2) driving on the rural roads is OK but not great, and 3) driving in the big city is NOT recommended.
With that in mind, I was headed to a restaurant close to our hotel, which was on a decent street. I thought no problem, we will just drive around to find parking. Then Google had me turn, and it was on a smaller, cobble-stone road. Still no problem; I could handle that. Then we turned again, and the number of pedestrians increased. “Silly walkers,” I thought, “Don’t they know they are on the road.”
Then Google said to turn again. And the road was thinner and fuller of people. “Just drive slower I told myself.” Then another turn, and it got even worse. Finally, we realized that we weren’t going to find parking, and even driving would continue to be tough. “Get me out of here, Nico,” I finally said out loud, after thinking it for quite a while. Unfortunately, because of the big buildings, Google just spun around in circles without giving a way out and to the hotel or asked me to do the impossible and do a u-turn. At least from the hotel, we could walk. We finally got to an extremely tight corner that I wasn’t sure that the car could make. Nico played lookout, looking down both directions to see if there was an exit, and then guiding me around the corner. It ended up being a 5 point turn, but we made it. After that, we made our way out, finally, but my heart rate and blood pressure continued to be high. It was another 30 minutes later at dinner and with a cold beer in hand that they finally dropped down to normal rate again. I definitely won’t miss this part of being in Rome in spite of missing the wonderful blessing, the beautiful buildings, and the tons of history. Tomorrow, we leave for London, before finally flying home the day after. I’m missing being home and in my environment, but am sad to see this wonderful pilgrimage coming to an end.
If have never been to Rome before, there are wide avenues and small cobble-stone road designed for horses or carriages not 21st century cars, especially when filled with people walking. Nico read a guide book posting online talking about driving in Italy. The recommendations were 1) driving on the Autostrade was recommended (that’s the toll freeway system), 2) driving on the rural roads is OK but not great, and 3) driving in the big city is NOT recommended.
With that in mind, I was headed to a restaurant close to our hotel, which was on a decent street. I thought no problem, we will just drive around to find parking. Then Google had me turn, and it was on a smaller, cobble-stone road. Still no problem; I could handle that. Then we turned again, and the number of pedestrians increased. “Silly walkers,” I thought, “Don’t they know they are on the road.”
Then Google said to turn again. And the road was thinner and fuller of people. “Just drive slower I told myself.” Then another turn, and it got even worse. Finally, we realized that we weren’t going to find parking, and even driving would continue to be tough. “Get me out of here, Nico,” I finally said out loud, after thinking it for quite a while. Unfortunately, because of the big buildings, Google just spun around in circles without giving a way out and to the hotel or asked me to do the impossible and do a u-turn. At least from the hotel, we could walk. We finally got to an extremely tight corner that I wasn’t sure that the car could make. Nico played lookout, looking down both directions to see if there was an exit, and then guiding me around the corner. It ended up being a 5 point turn, but we made it. After that, we made our way out, finally, but my heart rate and blood pressure continued to be high. It was another 30 minutes later at dinner and with a cold beer in hand that they finally dropped down to normal rate again. I definitely won’t miss this part of being in Rome in spite of missing the wonderful blessing, the beautiful buildings, and the tons of history. Tomorrow, we leave for London, before finally flying home the day after. I’m missing being home and in my environment, but am sad to see this wonderful pilgrimage coming to an end.